Limberlost in Czech-day 4

Waking up to falling snow in a forest is always a different experience, peering out of our window the green became green and white, then white and then even more white and soon only white. The sound of the falling snow was magical and the flakes so big, we could just sit there at the porch peering out as the morning unfolded on the crumpled clothed and happy souls of ours. Nature through its sounds and sights which are slow and never loud, heal all that you may have Its impossible not to be amazed, wide eyed and happy when you see a sight and hear a sound that has been placed for you by the mountains and forests.

With a morning like this on the last day of the Czech trip, it would have been a pity to stay indoors. We selected a relatiely less commonly hike, which our sketchy map predicted to be of 10km. Thus started our comedy of errors and false assumptions - 10km, easy relaxed walk to wind up the holiday, close to where we were staying. Unlike the normal hiking day pack we just put in an apple and some rice waffles and thought of breakfast enroute. 

As you can imagine the route was not sure so there was no enroute and so there was no breakfast. Finally by the grace of supreme map reading skills of our omni present and omni potent driver we managed to reach our point of start. Not withstanding the directions given by a half crazed digger by the side of deserted road or the spooky cafe waitress who just came out of some haunted story, it was Deepam who could get us to the corrcet point. 

It looked inviting and chrming, the recent of spell of snow in the last few days covered any track if there were any. But as it was, as it was presumed, it was an easy walk or stroll in the snowy woods; we started off cheerfully.

Every few steps we would stop to listen to the sounds - falling snow, snow slithering of overladen leaves, songs of a merry bird and the whistling wind throuh the pines. 

A snowman duly made, another duly destroyed and with the sun on our backs we walked on, a bit up a bit down a bit left and a bit to the right. It was a picnic, with no other living human soul around. 

We speculated on the trees age, cutting patterns and the commercial growing of these timber giving giants as we walked on. Following the marks our trail was supposed to have, we came up at the first stop where we thought we would have a coffee or some morsel to eat. But it was not open, the reason being that the trail was not yet open for the season, this explained our solitude. 

Anyhow we were having fun, a few odd minutes later we continued the trail. Now the path narrowed in, the trees seem to take over, branches wanted to stop our way, but side stepping and deviating we were on.                                                                                                                                                                                 The path became tortuous and slippery with the moss and the ice. 

Forcing us up the rock sides to avoid slipping all the way down. 

But what goes up comes down, and as always up seems better, the coming down was steep and at places the ladders fixed from the last year were in place, but slippery and in doubtfull condition. We slid and stepped and fell and carried on. 

Then came a point when we noticed a slight change in th emarking symbol of our trail, the colors were the same but the shape was similiar not same. Bringing in the slight bit of doubt in our head.

 We followed it as that was the only way. But soon we were at a cliff from where we could see down for miles in the valley. All we saw was an ever exapnding forest. Suddenly the breeze seemed like a gale and the sun could give no more warmth and the cold started to buid in. These are the games that our minds play. Out came the map and we figured out that the end point of the trail which was supposed to be another cafe would also be closed as the trail was yet not opened and we would have another long walk back to our car further from there. That was okay, but what was not is that right now we seemed lost, out of food and cold.

Quick evaluation of options were that we could trudge all the way back we came, like retreating soldiers and the walk back was nearly 4 hours in addition. Or else we could give a shot in trying to figure out a way to reach to the road head. We decided for the latter, but with hesitation and thought we would push ahead for an hour and then re decide on the next action. If we yet seemed lost we turn back to recah back to the car before night fall. Suddenly the banter vanished as we walked and Deepam came up with the question that I could carry her on my back all the way. Chivalrous me said ofcourse, but the voice deep within was howling - what nonsense is this? A footprint troubled Deepam to no end, was it a wolf or hyena? And voila by the end of the hour we found the road. A sudden relief and soon followed by a feeling of triumph that we overcame our fears and got there. The walk further to the car though another 4k did not feel like more than a few metres. Shaking our hands and proud we walked off the trail with the decsion to never be under prepared again. What a sign off to a lovely holiday of never before seen sights, amazing experiences, beautiful mountains and enchanted forests. Maybe we never come back again but these images will always be in our heads. Bye Czech.

The Czech tread-Ore mountains day 2: Pravcika brava & Kamnitz gorge

The mighty Elbe never loses sight of Decin or the Ore ranges or even Bohemia per se. It loops, winds and keeps its wathcful eye over the days and the nights. Its not tame but not fearsome, neighter too clean or too civilized, its a character by itself. Driving along the Elbe from Decin uptil Hrezensko and Mezni Luca it guided us all the way through, showing us its curves and force.

Starting from Mezni Luca the trail was to follow up upto Pravcicka Brava and instead of turning to Hrezenko we decided to be more adventurous and continue into the gorges, intending to cover a two day section in one itself.





Deepam with her poles and new " Merrels" was the raring to go. The climb was steep and in a small clearing from a distance I could see som eshapes of wings been cut out in wood. A closer inspection revealed that it was a cut out off different wings to depict shapes and wing-span to help identify the local birds.

Walking in a forest, huffing-puffing up and down,
hearing out the birds and the gurgling stream, with a nippy air
brings out previously hidden springs under the feet.

At places the snow played hide n seek as we moved on. Soon enough the forests gave way to more open views which gave us glimpses of the Ore mountains we were heazding towards.

The sandstone mountains make you wonder and imagine at the
same time.  "Its from dust we arise and to dust we fall" feels
most apt here. From the hidden throes of the sea these arose
and now with the baking sun and the lashing rains, weighed
down by the snow they form a beach like sand around them again .

We reached a point which reminded me of a an amphitheatre carved out in stone by the elements. Its half open lines, open gaze and bench like formations to rest on with magnificint views to take in.



















Here on we were meandering between the rocks till we came upon a curve from where a few steps were hacked out and a wooden railing installed.
 It descended into the balcony of a theater, half suspended in air to a funnel of valley which opened out the flat forests of Bohemian-Saxon area. We would not have been surprised if a a few characters would have lept up and performed to our whims and fancies, such was the inherent greatness of the place, mere mortals like us felt important  by just being there.

Further numerable cycles of trudge-nudge-admire-absorb later we caught sight of the Pravcika Brava, our first goal for the day. It was as if a boring device went through solid rock or perhaps if you wish then imagine a swirling sea laying deposits on deposits with meticulous care and suddenly comes a unruly whale that has been thrown out of the class for being wild, it comes along and lashes at the home work of the sea neatly stacked and piled for a submission. Making a neat hole through it all. 

The last bit of ascent and we reached the brava. Passing under it, through the tunnel which wound through one of its walls and further up the adjacent cliff for a better distant view . Selfies done, eating rice waffles and apple done, time was beckoning for the tougher aspects that sitting under the sun and gazing the glorious expanse before us. Descending down and then through a forest trail, some asphalt and we were as close to Hrezenko as we would go. 

Our planned route looped back to the left descending to the level of the river. At the loop was a small hut selling some fries and hot dogs, which we devourved with scant usage of any time. One by two being the secret, much to the agony and irritation of my fellow hiking mate. (The salutation takes a tone as the mood was) Along the river we wound crossing to either bank with regularity. 

Deeper in the valley as it was, the sun did not reach here, the winds were chilly and the water did what best it could do, to make it further a degree less and add the dampness. Soon we were in the gorge and the we could walk no further, not due to any reason concerning our legs – we were spring chickens as yet ( the spring came in to early for our chickens though), the route vanished and the gorge made it impossible to continue. 

Here the river is drawn up an embankment to stagger its flow and upstream we could see as a result the water was as calm as in a lagoon. It was a relief to weary legs that we now had to take the boat to the till the next trail end. It was no ordinary boat ride though, much like a gondola in Venice, the boatman stands at the end with a single oar and with each swing of the oar he slides it down till the bottom of the water to give it a push upstream in this calm water. He made it further interesting by adding his dimensions of imagination.

 Most of the rock faces we crossed had a name which correlated to how they appeared-ET,three monkeys, tigers, ape with a single eye to name a few. It was silent, green of a dark hue, water all around serene and calm with the gentle swaying of the boat we were in. At a point we could see the end of the ride and our legs were rather unhappy at this sight.

 But the boat stopped our boatman announced that we were seeing the Niagra falls and Icould not see a thing. I maybe missing something perhaps, the fatigue perhaps, I wondered explaining to myself why I could not see any falls. But no one could, as it was not there – but only until a moment, the boatman pulled a chain and along a dry rocky path over a overhang came a huge amount of water suddenly gushing down. What a small waterfall could do to grown up adults given the element of surprise was a sight to see, cheering-clapping and photographing. If it was there when we would have come, no one would have given a second look to a small falling bit of water along the river, but add in the surprise and block the water till it builds up and you have a different scenario all together. We disembarked soon after, passed a tunnel which was darker than the moonless night and the subsequent fading sun made us grab our shades. Here on we faced the toughest part of the ascent, poles were baught out for the madame and the climb commenced. It was not short, nor easy but done without a fuss, just when I thought this was then last straw on the knees of my best buddy, the knees found new friends in poles and new shoes. Shining and victorious Deepam emerged on the top. She was amply rewarded by the hike with the parting gift – a perfect warm café in the village, while it was snowing outside, super yum garlic soup and proper chairs to sit on. 

The car was there to welcome us, just where we left it,soon it was warm inside and the snow increased, almost to a mini snow storm as we headed back to Decin. It was already time for dinner by the time we were back and a warm bath felt a gift from the heavens before sleep. The snow did not let up, the wind did not either and nor did we.  All in all we were happy and fit and raring to go the next day again. 

Hiking in czech bohemia-Teski-day 1

850 km drive by a single person in a single day and the forgone conclusion is you would be a tired soul. But Deepam is made of sterner stuff,

paradoxically by the time we entered the Czech republic-starting from Brussels, she was at her peak of energy.

Maybe the energy is directly proportional to distance from office and boss.






It was early noon by the time we reached Ludikovice and our idyllic vacation house. Set in the forest, with sprawling lawns, viewing the Ore and Bohemian mountains and the chirping birds making their presence felt.


But this was where we stay and sleep. So bags dropped, loo paid the honory visit and off we went to Teski.

Teski is a small village on the outskirts of even small village on the outskirts of the Decin, from here starts the short trail we planed to hike today. The snow was falling incessantly and our steps on the fresh snow were soon covered by the falling flakes.








 It felt like none came before us and if some one came after they would feel like us as well – that none came before them. This set the tenor of the mystical day. The trail climbed up to a junction, we took the left and entered the magical, enchated world of sandstone formations springing up from the ground in a variety of formations.

The rocks take myriad shapes, some defy gravity and the others feel like creatures, some have holes in them , others have windows –“jharoka” would be more apt. At places we could see through three successive rocks as each had their “jharoka” facing the other, as if these were the apartment blocks of the elves who would stay here. As a result I never lost the sight of Deepam even if she there were a series of sandstone rock formations between us.

These formations had the most bizzare patterns on them, holds like circles, some like eggs and some like a bed were all over them. It doesn’t take a scientist to figure out why they are a hotspot of climbing, they just entice you to climb and I gave in to this call-up a chimney formation, through a hole in the wall formation-it was a “salle de escalade” with the snow poured in for an effect.




Winding our way through kilometers were not perceived and the loop was finished. Going down we came to the café, which turned out to be ou favourite food  haunt of the vacation. A shack of wood with the best made wheat pancakes with blueberries and cream.