Showing posts with label Sharat Varma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sharat Varma. Show all posts

"Tapovan" where gods would meditate

Tapovan could be any place where intense meditation is performed, but "Tapovan" can only ring one bell in my head - the most beautiful high altitude meadow nestled between the base of the Shivling and Bhagirathi peaks.
For both Deepam and myself, Tapovan had been a near miss when we had gone to Gaumakh years ago. In Sept 2012  we got an opportunity to escape the mundane once again and we headed off to Tapovan finally. Starting off from Delhi, we headed to Kuflon to Anil and Shree - our comfort zone in Uttarkashi which can never disppoint us. Early next morning effervescent Tilak was there to accompany us further on. The connection with Tilak seems spiritual at times :)
Sitting in a Bolero with our supplies on the roof , we picked up Kishan and started to make our way to Gnagotri. Nroute we stopped close to Harsil to pick up some fresh apples and stocked some in the supplies. Enroute we crossed the Weilson bridge and rememebred the man on the white horse. His travels continue to inspire me till now. At Gangotri, a short mandatory visit to the temple and obtaining the passes for entry into rstricted zones, we were fit to go by late morning.

Hiking with Deepam, I have learnt some lessons, they are practical but hillarious. The foremost is that I should not walk with her, even though she wishes me to. If I am around she has a outlet for her pain, at times reluctance to carry on and being tired. But if I am not there and instead someone else then she is a bit constrained to let it out. This I have a







pplied since Chandrashila hike, when Sambhao was with her. This time it was Tilak - mean of me , I say no its not (with a chuckle). Tilak likes to talk as well and has a different perspective to life, whch opens up a bit your own eyes and he is in love with the montains. Given these, I knew they would be fine. The first half day was re-living our previous Gaumukh hike as we were on the same path. By dusk we ereted our tents, set up the kitchen tent and after a belly full were soon off to sleep for a long day tomorrow.
Starting early we were in high spirits and traversed the distance till Gaumukh by early noon. Enroute we started to drink off the streams, observe the myraid wild flowers, saw a herd of Ibex and witnessed a light show by clouds and the sun. All along the Shivling peak kept a watchfull eye on us. This is one of the most challenging technical peaks and some day.......soon.
At Gaumukh there was a babaji, made a small prayer, had the prashad, some rest and started off. It looked simple enough, we just had to go along the let flank of the glacier, gaining hieght on the adjoining hill, then do traverse accross body of glacier, and then afterreaching the right flank make a steep short ascent to the meadow. Simple. But I forgot - the left flank hill has nothing but loose rocks and scree. The glacier traverse has thousands of open crevases, fall in one and you will be out floating in the Ganges a few centuries later. The small steep climb , is not really small. And you have your loads to carry. And cross the glacier before the weather takes the finicky turn that it does each noon in higher Himalayas.
The scree was managable, if you were quicker than the free falling rocks then you were safe, but the glacier traverse was a different being all together. The first sights of the crevase made Deepam nearly cry.

Unlike crevases that you see  in high altitude passes, here its not white, not blue, but its black.. Infact in the whole tapestry of the Gangotri glacier which extends neary 30km never closely resembles a glacier in truest sense. Its a valley glacier system and has svereal supraglacial lakes, moraines and the runn off from the surrounding Gangotri peaks, Chaukhamba, Shivling and Meruu give it a dirty brown top cover.

Years of rock fall and sand and ice being mixed followed by the warming have made the crevases look like black gashes on brownish surface. On the sides of these gashes precariously balanced are few rocks that periodically fall down and you hear the thump, whooosh and then silence. The glacier - ate it, a boulder as big a smal building. Thats when the enormous apetite of the crevase hits you, that you could be a measley snack. To top it Kishan continued his stories of people lost on these glacier and those who never came back. Hopping, skipping, walking and clinging we made it accross in one piece. By now we were tired. Then began the "small" ascent up. Going a significant portion on all fours we were moving forward, when the inevitable happened. One of us fell - slipping and ended with face in the mud , all dusted but no broken bones. A long arduous climb we arrived at the meadow of Tapovan. Quite exhausted, quickly the camp was set in place. Deepam and me got in our tent and in the sleeping bags. Deepam was fatigued beyond expression and I contemplated the steps for an emergency evacuation for her, if needed. Tilak and Kishan got in some hot food in our tent and soon we were in sound sleep.

The next morning we woke up to a bright day and to completely renewed ourselves. No trace of being tired, no fatigue, we were super charged. We felt the energy of this place and could feel the energy of a place where supposedly hundreds of powerful sadhus are meditating in the visible form.

 We could feel that within us, it was magical. The lanscape was frosted over by the night. There were these swirls of frost that formed over small plants. On holding in the hands they melted . The litte stream that flew had a layer of ice on which sat the crows. The first lights on the shivling baught out all the glory of this mighty peak. Tilak narrated that the valve for the gas burner was perhaps forgotten at the previous camp. They found the "mauni" baba who has been meditating here since years and he lent us his valve to make food. If it were not for him, we would have no food last night and non today either.


Today was also Tilaks birthday and Deepam took out the laddus she had been saving for him all this trip in her backpack. We celebrated with the laddus, Kishan made some steaming hot paranthas, tea and with a full belly and having seen then breathtaking meadow which can never be enough, we started back around noon. Retracing our steps we look down from the left fank and could see the entire Gangotri glacier complex , its magnificient. On the other side when we saw the setting sun on shivling peak, we could see the face of Shiva on the peak, it was breath-holding and we were spellbound. Soon enough we set up our camp, had some pasta and played a lot of cards game, with huge and roaring bouts of laughter. The next day we started our way back and then the day after the drive again from Kuflon to Delhi.


Lansdowne-ideal weekend from Delhi

A long weekend and the itch on our wheels struck again. Now where?? uhmmmm...short , sweet, non tiring, no trek, relaxed...so many criteria. And Lansdowne was chosen. I had great memories of the place, mostly form an army kid perspective though. Anyhow Lansdowne - locked and we shot off.

Weekend fun for the elephants too. 

A short drive and soon after crossing habitation and entering the foothills we were rewarded with a herd of wild elephants, frolicking. They gave us a godd show showering mud on their backs and dipping in the water. Good going fella, we will do the same..





Dugadda to Jairikhal 




Take me to heaven 

The ride is pleasent, smooth and soon after hitting Dugadda we took left and the road is pure pleasure from here on. Smooth lazy bends, confiers for company and the breeze is cool. I always miss my cycle here. Some day perhaps....



Lazy road
Our red ridinh hood 

Soon enough, in less than 5 hours we reached Jairikhal, Oak Grove Inn. Dumped our stuff, siesta time till noon. Had a hearty lunch and an evening walk followed. 
Our room balcony









I like the texture and frame 



Tea time---wake up guys 



The Oak Grove Inn is designedd to have a great Hang out on a parapet overhanging in the valley, the fog and clouds engulf it completely and the feeling is supremely etheral . 


 The next morning, we left our laziness behind and went off walking, planning to take a small hike . Enroute we small countless kids going to school, but these 2 young girls captured our attention for their "road presence",,if u may say so.

We went along till the T point, from where the road to Srinagar bifurcates. Went along a small stroll up, up along the ridge we meanderedd and walked. Had some supplies in our day pack. So we stopped on the ridge top with an amazing view, refuelled on our energy. Listened to the song of the birds and the insects. Felt the sof breeze caress our face. Dozing off under the Pine trees in a surrounding so relaxing was much expectedd of us and we obliged.


The kaledecope to the ridge
 Soon we were moving on, imaging bears attacking us and having a great time. The trees and hills get the best of humor out of you. Its rejuvenating.
Trek buddy-also my wife
Chrysanthemum in full bloom 
We then headed back for Oak Grove and after becoming more presentable to Mrs&Col Bikram, we settled in the Hang out. Great gossip and snacks followed. Then the clouds engulfed us completely on the Hang out and the feeling was as if being suspended in air with clouds around us and only the four of us could see each other, that too in the muted light of a solitary lamp. 

Tree pot not flower pot 

Morning when we started to leave back from Lansdowne
 we were treated to some amazing paanch aanaj ka parantha and meat of deer. Amazing stuff, the taste yet lingers after these years.



I dive perfect-Olympics material 


The drive back was fun and short. The secret of Lansdowne lay in our hearts of the small dip pool and stream.

Lansdowne we shall be back and soon. Again and again. 

Spiti and Kinnaur in June 2010

Road-trip, road-trip, road-trip, it was howling in my head. I shared my thought with TT and she jumped the gun. "Lets do it somewhere difficult and remote....WOW". So the deal was sealed.


Snow walls and the track we made 



Google and more google, revealed Ladakh and Spiti as the contenders. After having spent a cumulative of almost 5 months in Ladakh =, it held few surprises for me and so Spiti it was. Not much time in research, just some calls and basic route charted out. Scorpio readied up. Tent, rations, woolens, tools, spares all loaded and we were off within perhaps 5 days of deciding.

Day 1 was from Delhi to Mashobra, with the routine stops at Karnal and Chd

Willow bank bakers at Shimla

. At Mashobra we checked in to Club Mahindra and retired to bed early, expecting a longish drive tomorrow.

Deepam just after Mashobra
Day 2 was from Mashobra to Kalpa. Soon after Mashobra the tree cover became more dense and the road was good till the JP dam site, where the road simply vanished and all was a cloud of dust. Enroute to Rampur we saw a few landslides and also an overhang rock feature of the road that lasted for almost 200mts.


Overhanging rocks on the highway
Route to Kalpa
At Rampur we topped up on the fuel and filled up our spare jerry can as well. Headed for Reckong Peo. The drive from Peo till Kalpa was a continous ascend and beautifull. At Kalpa we stayed at Golden Apple Resort and it was bang in the midst of a orhard.

view from golden apple

The windows had a view of the Kinner Kailash and green all around. By contrast the HPTDC hotel was much bigger, better located but so poor in quality and hygiene that you could almost smell the food eaten a week before.

With the chill in the air we had some great food with My Rey and a sound sleep. Next morning I went off for a walk to Roghi village and a little ahead to their grazing grounds.


 Met a school teacher who took me further to amazing vistas. He was a very informative and hospitable person, he then invited me to his place, served some tea and biscuits.
Kinnauri house in Roghi
Route to Roghi village
The whole family had a heart rendering warmth. They even gave me some walnuts from their tree, which were so soft and creamy. I promptly hid them in my pocked for Deepam, and headed back to Kalpa. Later in the noon after giving a thorough clean up to our car in the stream, had a fitful sleep under the clear sky and cool noon breeze.
Later we headed off to Jaka,
Trekking to Jaka

a longish hike to a lake in the high meadows. The route was spectacular with some amazing views of the Kailash. I vowed myself to come back to summit Kailash some day.
Kinner Kailash 

Next morning we made an early start and headed to Kaza. Soon after Peo the road deteriorated and landslides became a common occurance. With some apprehension and more of excitement we carried on.


Landslides gallore 
The landscape became bare and brown. Had a stop enroute at a well stacked canteen and filled up on some last minute shortages. Here we met a school teacher who was going to Nako and as the bus was not plying he wanted a lift.



Precarious bride crossing
With two of them and two of us we moved on. Crossed the inner line check post and the route came along a deep gorge where a broken down truck was causing some obstruction to traffic.


Entered Spiti
 Soon after there were loops, very similiar to Gata loops, with the landscape now turning almost lunar. After the loops the teachers got off and we moved on. It was noon by now and Nako was no where close. But we were hardly bothered and were having a great time. Then we were hailed down by two tourists who pleaded for a ride as there had been no bus since last 2 days. We obliged, but as soon as they said that were coming from Kasol our antennae went on high alert. Immediately I braked and enquired if they were carrying any drugs, which they assured was not the case. The route became more steep and narrow with the cliff becoming more severe. An interesting incident happened at the check post of Spiti where we were supposed to stop and make an entry. They presumed we were drivers for the forigners and when we explained we were helping them, exclaimed that perhaps we were trying to fight an election from here :)
Gateway to Nako


Soon we crossed Nako, then Tabo (dropped off the travellers) and moved on to Kaza.
First views of Kaza

 After Nako we crossed the ill famed Malling Nallah without any issue but it was scary, with the movement of the car triggering some fall of mud and rocks.



Ant hills ???

At Kaza we had no prior booking as we never knew how far we shall reach, saw a few places and homed on to Sakiya Abode. Plomked in our luggage had great food, very calming and comfortable place. Went off into the monastery and explored Kaza.Met some great people the BNHS group from Mumbai, French seamen, Italian driver, etc. Made Sachin Nugmpa Kangpao our den for pomodero.


Chankar from a distance
Next day off we were to explore Dhankar by a rout meant to be motorable but we went along.
Room on the roof of the world 












Next we were off to Ki, I went of cyclying from Kaza to Ki and Deepam came to rescue me back, had a lovely time in Ki.


Entry instructions at Ki

From the roof of KI











A few incidents in the gruelling high alt cycling trip I will always remember, one was when i was literally frozen and rigid , my only liquid and calorie source - Frooti fell off from the bike and I was unable to bend my limbs to pick it up and in slow motion it slipped of the cliff and all i could do was sit and watch and thaw in the sun that had just risen. Also when the down sections came speeds I picked were phenomenal.
Kaza by morning 
We came to know that the road to Manali may have opened and being risk takers we decided to move to Manali and literraly open the route for the season. Net day at dawn we were off. The landscape became frost very soon and the last village at Losar was covered in snow.
Losar -here we come


 A lama sat in our car asking to be dropped to Kunzum. Least assuring was to see that a sole JCB that acts as a rescue had dropped off its wheel into the spiti river and was immobile. None the less three of us - Ajay (another traveller willing to trust his neck with the two of us in wanting to cross Kunzum to Manali), Deepam and me with the lama started from Losar with Maggi in our bellies.

Maggi at Losar 





The road soon was ice and the snow starting to build up. Loosing traction we slowed down and
went more carefully.


The black ice is a killer and we could see water flowing under the ice that we were driving on. Soon the snow which was covering the landscape became 1,then 2, then 3, then 10 feet high. There was no road and no orientation. But turning back never occured to us.



Icicles as long as swords hung on the roads and when we reached Kunzum the gompa was no wher seen only a spire on the top, implying that the whole of it was burried in snow, that must have been more than 15 feet deep and covered the road and all navigation sights as well.

Kunzum..spot the chorten and where the heck is the road 





 Coming down the Kunzum loops was an expierience never to be forgotten, with snow falling thick, and the snow on the sides piled up to more than 20 feet in each side and no road to be seen and only ice that we were skating on. The brakes were as good as absent as there was no traction, only some engine braking and off roading saved the day. At two occasions we were almost done and over with falling over the cliffs, withing no control what so ever. But perhaps the lama's blessings saved the day. At Chattru had another maggi, and were informed that there again is no road ahead , as its yet under the glaciers that need to be cut by the BRO, so just drive and follow the river. U MUST BE JOKING MY FRIEND i thought, follow the river ??? Holy cow, how can we do that when all that we see is snow , in nut shell we had to create a road as we went.


So we did, at places the walls of snow were more than 30 feet high that we passes through

Snow walls and the track we made 
























. But we did and when finally we broke through the snow line, it was plain ecsatcy. We got out of our car and exhaled, but we were not the only ones exhaling-our tyres to were-6 punctures,repaired by us in the next 2 hours.while deepam frolicked with the sheep......

6 punctures...self repair in progress



The palampur to Spiti trekking sheep 



Then the ride was good, Gramphoo and then Rohtang. After having crossed no living soul all through the drive suddenly to see a crowd at Rohtang was very unpleasent. Dropped Ajay at Manali bus stand and then searched for a place to stay, homed on Negi , negotiated a special rate, had great trout and a fitful sleep.
Next day we re-couped in Manali and then carried on to Delhi non stop.





Amazing road trip, in pure terms of snow, wilderness, isolation and scary factor.