"Tapovan" where gods would meditate

Tapovan could be any place where intense meditation is performed, but "Tapovan" can only ring one bell in my head - the most beautiful high altitude meadow nestled between the base of the Shivling and Bhagirathi peaks.
For both Deepam and myself, Tapovan had been a near miss when we had gone to Gaumakh years ago. In Sept 2012  we got an opportunity to escape the mundane once again and we headed off to Tapovan finally. Starting off from Delhi, we headed to Kuflon to Anil and Shree - our comfort zone in Uttarkashi which can never disppoint us. Early next morning effervescent Tilak was there to accompany us further on. The connection with Tilak seems spiritual at times :)
Sitting in a Bolero with our supplies on the roof , we picked up Kishan and started to make our way to Gnagotri. Nroute we stopped close to Harsil to pick up some fresh apples and stocked some in the supplies. Enroute we crossed the Weilson bridge and rememebred the man on the white horse. His travels continue to inspire me till now. At Gangotri, a short mandatory visit to the temple and obtaining the passes for entry into rstricted zones, we were fit to go by late morning.

Hiking with Deepam, I have learnt some lessons, they are practical but hillarious. The foremost is that I should not walk with her, even though she wishes me to. If I am around she has a outlet for her pain, at times reluctance to carry on and being tired. But if I am not there and instead someone else then she is a bit constrained to let it out. This I have a

pplied since Chandrashila hike, when Sambhao was with her. This time it was Tilak - mean of me , I say no its not (with a chuckle). Tilak likes to talk as well and has a different perspective to life, whch opens up a bit your own eyes and he is in love with the montains. Given these, I knew they would be fine. The first half day was re-living our previous Gaumukh hike as we were on the same path. By dusk we ereted our tents, set up the kitchen tent and after a belly full were soon off to sleep for a long day tomorrow.
Starting early we were in high spirits and traversed the distance till Gaumukh by early noon. Enroute we started to drink off the streams, observe the myraid wild flowers, saw a herd of Ibex and witnessed a light show by clouds and the sun. All along the Shivling peak kept a watchfull eye on us. This is one of the most challenging technical peaks and some day.......soon.
At Gaumukh there was a babaji, made a small prayer, had the prashad, some rest and started off. It looked simple enough, we just had to go along the let flank of the glacier, gaining hieght on the adjoining hill, then do traverse accross body of glacier, and then afterreaching the right flank make a steep short ascent to the meadow. Simple. But I forgot - the left flank hill has nothing but loose rocks and scree. The glacier traverse has thousands of open crevases, fall in one and you will be out floating in the Ganges a few centuries later. The small steep climb , is not really small. And you have your loads to carry. And cross the glacier before the weather takes the finicky turn that it does each noon in higher Himalayas.
The scree was managable, if you were quicker than the free falling rocks then you were safe, but the glacier traverse was a different being all together. The first sights of the crevase made Deepam nearly cry.

Unlike crevases that you see  in high altitude passes, here its not white, not blue, but its black.. Infact in the whole tapestry of the Gangotri glacier which extends neary 30km never closely resembles a glacier in truest sense. Its a valley glacier system and has svereal supraglacial lakes, moraines and the runn off from the surrounding Gangotri peaks, Chaukhamba, Shivling and Meruu give it a dirty brown top cover.

Years of rock fall and sand and ice being mixed followed by the warming have made the crevases look like black gashes on brownish surface. On the sides of these gashes precariously balanced are few rocks that periodically fall down and you hear the thump, whooosh and then silence. The glacier - ate it, a boulder as big a smal building. Thats when the enormous apetite of the crevase hits you, that you could be a measley snack. To top it Kishan continued his stories of people lost on these glacier and those who never came back. Hopping, skipping, walking and clinging we made it accross in one piece. By now we were tired. Then began the "small" ascent up. Going a significant portion on all fours we were moving forward, when the inevitable happened. One of us fell - slipping and ended with face in the mud , all dusted but no broken bones. A long arduous climb we arrived at the meadow of Tapovan. Quite exhausted, quickly the camp was set in place. Deepam and me got in our tent and in the sleeping bags. Deepam was fatigued beyond expression and I contemplated the steps for an emergency evacuation for her, if needed. Tilak and Kishan got in some hot food in our tent and soon we were in sound sleep.

The next morning we woke up to a bright day and to completely renewed ourselves. No trace of being tired, no fatigue, we were super charged. We felt the energy of this place and could feel the energy of a place where supposedly hundreds of powerful sadhus are meditating in the visible form.

 We could feel that within us, it was magical. The lanscape was frosted over by the night. There were these swirls of frost that formed over small plants. On holding in the hands they melted . The litte stream that flew had a layer of ice on which sat the crows. The first lights on the shivling baught out all the glory of this mighty peak. Tilak narrated that the valve for the gas burner was perhaps forgotten at the previous camp. They found the "mauni" baba who has been meditating here since years and he lent us his valve to make food. If it were not for him, we would have no food last night and non today either.

Today was also Tilaks birthday and Deepam took out the laddus she had been saving for him all this trip in her backpack. We celebrated with the laddus, Kishan made some steaming hot paranthas, tea and with a full belly and having seen then breathtaking meadow which can never be enough, we started back around noon. Retracing our steps we look down from the left fank and could see the entire Gangotri glacier complex , its magnificient. On the other side when we saw the setting sun on shivling peak, we could see the face of Shiva on the peak, it was breath-holding and we were spellbound. Soon enough we set up our camp, had some pasta and played a lot of cards game, with huge and roaring bouts of laughter. The next day we started our way back and then the day after the drive again from Kuflon to Delhi.

Patangani peak and dhar in june 2012

This is a sequel to the Kedar Tal trek, after returning from Kedar Tal we were faced with the biggest challenge so far. Climbing the Patangani Dhar to get to the Rudugaira Valley. Daunting to say the least as the hurdles we faced were many - the climb alone was more than 1200meteres vertically, then after reaching the top no one knew what would be the snow conditions on the other side - we were the first people in either valley this year., also we were doing a two day thing compressed into one. 

Snow fields as we ascend

But any how with high spirits and some trpidition we went ahead. The climb was gruelling to say the least, a straight climb of >70degrees

Grassy ascend 

. While resting we saw in the profile that it showed we were semi-standing. The slippery grass did no bit to help. After many snow/ice/mud traversings we finally reached the boulder zone. The neck was cranedd straight up, to avoid the falling stones/ we moved in parallel lines and it took the life out of us. The searing cold winds, the gradient, the sun induced dehydration and finally the length of the climb. 

Finally we made it to the top and the hypoxia hits you hard and quick at nearly 18,000feet. Headaches were soon felt and 2 porters almost went delirious. 

Patangani peak

Summited the peak

SUmmit and banner

At the top when we saw the other side, it took the breath away from our lungs. The descent was nearly 90 degrees. and it was more than 1300 meters of vertical length. How to get down was the burning question. The snow condition was at its peak and so roping was ruled out - what was decided to just plod down and self arrest - so it was. Tiring, scary, daunting, never ending and crazy. 

The view from the top 

The long way down

Ice axe was saving me 

Go on and on, u can't rest

But the story did not end there, it was follwed by a boulder zone and more descent and the planned camp site had no water, so a further descent. By the time I reached the camp site - I could understand how people die of exhaustion. 

Soon other arrived, tea, tents, rest and then pictures. 

It was a crazy day. 

Next day what was seen to be a small way down to nala camp unfolded into something else.

Morning at Dabba camp-brush with Jogin II in the background

 The way down from our dabba camp was again nearly vertical down in loose rubble and dried grass. Crossed the river and a long way down with narrow treachrous paths now giving us no problems. At noon we ecided to have pakoras, in the middle of no where the mess tent was erected and tummy full of pakoras gorged on. Then on we went. Then we had to cross the river once again, from where??? Kishan showed a pine log spanned accross a gorge and off he went over it. 

Gorge to be crossed 

We had no energy to contemplate the possible dangers so we followed and we all managed. After that we felt the difficulties were behind us, but no. Spider wall one after the other, treacherous slippery path along the gorge and the continous reminder that all casualties take place on a fatigued body with a dull mind. So on we soldiered. Finally hit the level patch that goes into Gangotri. Headed to the Mandir and washed ourselves after a week in the Ganges. 

Gangotri at dusk as we reached

 Holy cow- how did we do it. Hats off guys. 

kedar tal June 2012

Reading Mallory and Shipton for days, dreaming of Nanda Devi inner sanctuary, it was but expected that I would be in the hills searching for my soul once again. So a quick call to Tilak , Rajib and Sandeep  and the eagles were ready to soar once again.

Descending the ridge only to climb the next

The plan- to get to Kedar Tal at a time when no one has, in early June (all were sceptical about achieving this, even in the best of seasons only 40% who try achieve Kedar Tal). Followed by Patangani Dhar (u must be kidding - vertical climb and descent of 1200metres in early june!!!!), if that was not all - followed by Rudugaira Peak summit (WTF)

Met at 12 and all but Sandeep were in attendance. Sooner than later our tie clad friend came along in his chauffeur driven car. (God, what pretense these normal guys have to keep, the cloak of civility!!!) Off we were,  music in ears and sniffing for adventure. 4 am break at Muzzafarnagar for tea and sandy is snoring and snoring. 9am chamba breakfast of oily samosas and bread. Then rally driver takes turn to reach Chinyali by noon and true to the word we were in Uttarkashi by noon.

The logistics work up starts and guide turns up, loads are divided, enthusiasm is the air. Off we go the mandir to seek blessings and buy candies. Crash for the night at the eagles nest. 

The provisions being packed and sorted 

The Parsunath Mandir at Uttarkashi

Next fine morning, inspite of repeated efforts we were late, the porters did not turn up in time and so on. Finally by 11am from Gangotri the team takes off. Our team finally includes Rajib (Dada), Sandeep (Sandy), Tilak, Sharat (Doc), 2 guides - Kishan and Balwant, 6 porters and a cook-Kartar Singh. 

                                            Our luggage at the last point of cellular coverage

Day 1 - the plan is to head from Gangotri to Bhoj Kharak. As soon as we start the slog starts, its sheer climbing from the word go. After barely an hour of walking we come to an area where the route goes below a rock overhang and the drop on the side is into a vertical gorge. The steps enough to accomadate half a shoe width.Kishan says the 1st day is tough and if one misses a step or falls then no point even to search where he went, forget about being alive. And true to his word, the route is narrow, along steep inclines, gorges and very steep. 

The valley as it opens, with first views of snow

But none the less we plodded on, to reach the "mud mountains". The mud mountains????what are these?? Tilak explained and showed the implied meaning. 

Tilak traversing one of the many mud mountains

As the erosion has continued, the landslides are more and more in this region. As you take your first step in this heap it starts to slide and the rocks from the top start rolling on to your head, so the trick is to tread light and swift. As you start the landslide you have to quick and nible to be ahead of it. If this was not enough then the incline is steep and looking down can give you chills with the torrents of the river rushing below. 

Then next came the "spider walls". Now what the heck is this Tilak?? well, they are just smooth vertical cliffs with the hint of a small ridge on it, you have to walk on this and there are no hand supports. 

The small ridge on the left rock face needs to be crossed, one of the many spider walls

Done and over with this, we soon hit our camp site. The tents go up, mess is up in no time and soup, roti and subji in no time. 

Saving the fuel and using logs, dada on the beedi in the rear(spotted)

With us four i the tent, the sleep movements have to synchronised. "All turn left, all straighten up, all turn right.."

Day 2 - The thrill starts- Bhoj Kharak to Kedar Kharak, steep climb, long route and chilly winds. 

Snow storm at 2 pm after lunch

Myself - some candid moments

The temperature gauge showing -3 at the camp

The camp site at the end was beautiful.

The camps being set up with the "Thalay Sagar" and "Bhrighupanth" looming large

Our camp altitude

 After we reached there was a small snow storm and after that we went for an acclimatization climb to the closest ridge and revised our snow and climbing techniques

Acclimatization climb

From the ridge we climbed we had some clear views of the two imposing peaks. 

The Brighupanth

The Thalay Sagar

Day 3 - Kedar Kharak to Kedar Tal and back to Kedar Kharak 

The day started early with a good high protien breakfast and a small team went off to Kedar Tal as no porters were needed. We carried our day packs. Gaiters, Harness, Ropes, Ice axes , we were all ready and determined o get there. 

Kedar Tal is nestled in between the lap of the Thalay Sagar and Brighupanth. Access from Bhoj Kharak is by climbing a series of ridges and traversing a boulder zone we hit the glaciers, from there stick to the ridge that goes on and descends in the Tal. 

Lots of snow fields needed to be crossed. Early morning made it better with the snow remaining firm under us. 

Crossing ridges

The sinking snow and deadly incline - good 

exercise

Descending the ridge only to climb the next

The team 

These boulders are on the glaciers, so they too move with the glacier and are inherently unstable and brittle. 

The Kedar Tal when we reached was ecstacy. Completely frozen as never seen before and we walked on the surface. Clicked our pics and turned back with the weather closing in. Luckily for us as we reached the camp the weather closed in. It was a cat and mouse game, with the weather. While returning on the slopes we slid down and  "self arrest" was practiced with all gusto. All in all a great day. 

GPS readings at Kedar Tal 

Treading on firm ice

Finally reached - where eagles dare

Tilak

Amazing wonder