Reading Mallory and Shipton for days, dreaming of Nanda Devi inner sanctuary, it was but expected that I would be in the hills searching for my soul once again. So a quick call to Tilak , Rajib and Sandeep and the eagles were ready to soar once again.
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| Descending the ridge only to climb the next |
The plan- to get to Kedar Tal at a time when no one has, in early June (all were sceptical about achieving this, even in the best of seasons only 40% who try achieve Kedar Tal). Followed by Patangani Dhar (u must be kidding - vertical climb and descent of 1200metres in early june!!!!), if that was not all - followed by Rudugaira Peak summit (WTF)
Met at 12 and all but Sandeep were in attendance. Sooner than later our tie clad friend came along in his chauffeur driven car. (God, what pretense these normal guys have to keep, the cloak of civility!!!) Off we were, music in ears and sniffing for adventure. 4 am break at Muzzafarnagar for tea and sandy is snoring and snoring. 9am chamba breakfast of oily samosas and bread. Then rally driver takes turn to reach Chinyali by noon and true to the word we were in Uttarkashi by noon.
The logistics work up starts and guide turns up, loads are divided, enthusiasm is the air. Off we go the mandir to seek blessings and buy candies. Crash for the night at the eagles nest.
The provisions being packed and sorted
The Parsunath Mandir at Uttarkashi
Next fine morning, inspite of repeated efforts we were late, the porters did not turn up in time and so on. Finally by 11am from Gangotri the team takes off. Our team finally includes Rajib (Dada), Sandeep (Sandy), Tilak, Sharat (Doc), 2 guides - Kishan and Balwant, 6 porters and a cook-Kartar Singh.
Our luggage at the last point of cellular coverage
Day 1 - the plan is to head from Gangotri to Bhoj Kharak. As soon as we start the slog starts, its sheer climbing from the word go. After barely an hour of walking we come to an area where the route goes below a rock overhang and the drop on the side is into a vertical gorge. The steps enough to accomadate half a shoe width.Kishan says the 1st day is tough and if one misses a step or falls then no point even to search where he went, forget about being alive. And true to his word, the route is narrow, along steep inclines, gorges and very steep.
The valley as it opens, with first views of snow
But none the less we plodded on, to reach the "mud mountains". The mud mountains????what are these?? Tilak explained and showed the implied meaning.
Tilak traversing one of the many mud mountains
As the erosion has continued, the landslides are more and more in this region. As you take your first step in this heap it starts to slide and the rocks from the top start rolling on to your head, so the trick is to tread light and swift. As you start the landslide you have to quick and nible to be ahead of it. If this was not enough then the incline is steep and looking down can give you chills with the torrents of the river rushing below.
Then next came the "spider walls". Now what the heck is this Tilak?? well, they are just smooth vertical cliffs with the hint of a small ridge on it, you have to walk on this and there are no hand supports.
The small ridge on the left rock face needs to be crossed, one of the many spider walls
Done and over with this, we soon hit our camp site. The tents go up, mess is up in no time and soup, roti and subji in no time.
Saving the fuel and using logs, dada on the beedi in the rear(spotted)
With us four i the tent, the sleep movements have to synchronised. "All turn left, all straighten up, all turn right.."
Day 2 - The thrill starts- Bhoj Kharak to Kedar Kharak, steep climb, long route and chilly winds.
Snow storm at 2 pm after lunch
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| Myself - some candid moments |
The temperature gauge showing -3 at the camp
The camp site at the end was beautiful.
The camps being set up with the "Thalay Sagar" and "Bhrighupanth" looming large
Our camp altitude
After we reached there was a small snow storm and after that we went for an acclimatization climb to the closest ridge and revised our snow and climbing techniques
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| Acclimatization climb |
From the ridge we climbed we had some clear views of the two imposing peaks.
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| The Brighupanth |
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| The Thalay Sagar |
Day 3 - Kedar Kharak to Kedar Tal and back to Kedar Kharak
The day started early with a good high protien breakfast and a small team went off to Kedar Tal as no porters were needed. We carried our day packs. Gaiters, Harness, Ropes, Ice axes , we were all ready and determined o get there.
Kedar Tal is nestled in between the lap of the Thalay Sagar and Brighupanth. Access from Bhoj Kharak is by climbing a series of ridges and traversing a boulder zone we hit the glaciers, from there stick to the ridge that goes on and descends in the Tal.
Lots of snow fields needed to be crossed. Early morning made it better with the snow remaining firm under us.
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| Crossing ridges |
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| The sinking snow and deadly incline - good |
exercise
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| Descending the ridge only to climb the next |
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| The team |
These boulders are on the glaciers, so they too move with the glacier and are inherently unstable and brittle.
The Kedar Tal when we reached was ecstacy. Completely frozen as never seen before and we walked on the surface. Clicked our pics and turned back with the weather closing in. Luckily for us as we reached the camp the weather closed in. It was a cat and mouse game, with the weather. While returning on the slopes we slid down and "self arrest" was practiced with all gusto. All in all a great day.
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| GPS readings at Kedar Tal |
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| Treading on firm ice |
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| Finally reached - where eagles dare |
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| Tilak |
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| Amazing wonder |
As soon as I reached there, it was as if the scenario opened up and the peaks seemed in touching distance. Sat there mersmerised for some time and painfully missed my beloved wife.
